New Delhi or Bust – Memories from India, the Spicy Sub-Continent
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After being back a week from an amazing four city journey throughout the Northern parts of India it feels good to be home, though I must say I do miss the sites, sounds and tastes of India. Lets see, where to begin…
The purpose of the trip was pure fun and exploration based on experiencing the Holi Festival and a celebration of our 35th anniversary together. Now I feel old typing that, but I will say that we met when I was 19, so you can do the math. I think our last trip abroad was 3 years prior to Turkey, so we were ready for some fun and adventure.
I can’t quite remember the show, if it was on PBS or a 60 Minutes interview, but years ago I saw the actors Goldie Hawn and Kurt Russel visiting India and experiencing the Holi Festival. I knew I had to go too one day as the music, festivities and colors of the rainbow filled the air, hair and clothes of everyone there. People laughing, singing, throwing colored powder in the air and wiping it on each other. It looked magical. A celebration of Spring and all that goes with it.
Needless to say when I saw an ad for the tour, in a country we both always wanted to explore, I booked it immediately. Visiting the historic sights of Delhi, Agra, and Jaipur, with a safari in Ranthambore National Park with the possibility of seeing the rare Bengal tiger in it’s own habitat was more than enticing. Count me in!
On top of that, it was centered around the Holi Festival, a double win. That was a year ago. Then we had the long wait…
I won’t bore you with flight details, hotels and the day to day grind of travel, but I will share with you some thoughts and photos of a magical, vibrant and beautiful country. It’s people, beyond the concentrated mass of population, sounds and traffic, always seemed to have a smile on their faces.
Tasty fried snacks and roasted nuts from street vendors dotted each street and corner.
There was no screaming in traffic, though there was the constant honk of horns, there were lines on the streets, but there was no signs of orderly driving. Often three lanes were marked on the roads with five lanes of cars, trucks, scooters, motorcycles, cows, dogs, and people all crisscrossing and all very aware of each other.
It was amazing to watch, maneuver through and make a destination unscathed and undented. I love that energy.
All modes of transportation were available. Some safer than others…
We always try to eat everything we can when traveling. I love to experience true food in the countries we visit. What’s the point on missing out? I found and ate crispy dosa every single morning. Where has that been all my life?!
We also made it a point to try one dish, dal makhani, throughout the country just to see how different it was at each place we stopped. Wow.
This is an ancient Step Well. Just look at the amazing craftsmanship and detail in this. It was mesmerizing and I remember commenting to Dave it reminded me of a MC Esher painting. That’s a long way down to the water.
The famed Taj Mahl. I was a little disappointed that three of the minarets were under a cleaning, but it’s still an memorable photo. One minaret was cleaned and the difference was quite obvious and needed.
The flavors! Oh my, the spices and techniques in cooking. The street vendors, hotels and highway road stops we hit up. All amazing and some were lackluster, but overall a delight to the senses and tastebuds. I was in heaven.
We took rickshaw rides through spice bazaars and back alleys of Old Delhi, visited mosques, watched marble inlay artisans at work, had our breath taken away at majestic landmarks from history like the Taj Mahal and even experienced visiting a Bengal Tiger Reserve. I love to soak it all in and participate with my partner in crime.
Just look at this marble inlay work – amazing!
Below are the gemstones that will be inlaid in the above marble plate. Insane, delicate art work!
There were so many beautiful, proud people who, as we passed, asked us in to see their homes.
An outdoor stove, complete with a little dried cow dung for fuel.
Walking the streets the energy was buzzing for the upcoming Holi festival.
Some of the women I saw had upwards of 50 pounds balanced atop their heads of various farming products, fuel, water, fruit and food.
This garden surrounded by water near the mountaintop Amber Fort was breathtaking. Built circa 1592!
The mosque in Old Dehi. We were in shorts and had to cover up.
On some of the hotter days where it hit 102-104°F we had the afternoons free. Albeit we were in the middle of no where, with no true WiFi to surf the net or catch up on emails, it was nice to have downtime. I’m so used to go, go, go all the time. Needless to say, I’ve never been a big fan of them, but thinking back on it, I could get used to the fine art of napping during the heat of the day, too.
With 55 tigers in the huge 151 square mile reserve, we were lucky to site one female twice in one day.
As the next to last day came upon us and we had traveled to many a fort, palace and historical site, it was time for the Holi Festival.
The evening before Holi, Holika Dahan, or “the lighting of bonfire” takes place, we were in the Jaipur palace square – it was exciting. The music, people and energy were contagious. Villagers would dip straw torches into the blessed fire and run as fast as they could back to light fires back in their villages.
The day of the festival itself we had so much fun laughing, dancing and throwing colored powder on everyone that passed me by. I was covered as well, head to tow in a rainbow of colors and sweat. Kids were popping out of no where with squirt guns, and water launchers making everyone a kaleidoscope of every color of the rainbow.
Dave and I wiped colors of yellow, red, blue, purple, green and orange on our fellow travelers, each other and other people that were at the park we visited.
There was also an open bar that allowed those less akin to revelry join in with careless abandon and enjoy themselves. Some a little too much, but hey, it’s Holi!
Sure there was plenty of visual poverty and the trappings that go with that, but the genuine generosity of the people I encountered was amazing. I’ve realized there’s a difference between being content and happy and a smile goes a long ways. Kinda like what you don’t know, being in your own bubble, etc.
I also realize when venturing out into the rest of the world how good we have it here where I live and how many people take it for granted. I think travel should be mandatory to open the eyes of those in their own bubble. I think travel not only awakens one to others’ lives, conditions and experiences, but makes me grateful for what and who I am.
Religion and politics aside, people are people and we all want to be healthy, happy and loved. And we all love to eat.
It’s good to be home. Spring is in the air and for this food blogger I am looking forward to some of the smaller things in life like rhubarb, cherries and plump, juicy strawberries. Fresh, tender spring greens for salads and the possibility of the new figs that soon will be growing on our tree out back.
Thanks for taking the time to read my rambling and I hope you liked the photos (many from my iPhone).
Inspired recipes will are over on my other site, Silk Road Recipes. I hope you check them out! Enjoy!
India truly is a remarkable country that knocks you over with its crazy bustle and myriad of colours. And then there’s the food! I was absolutely thrilled when I saw the Taj Mahal for the first time several years ago, although it’s looking a lot cleaner in your photo!
It did indeed blow me down when we first arrived – a sensory overload that I grew to love. When we walked through the gates to the Taj Mahal it looked so perfect as if a huge movie screen backdrop, painted or something. So incredible and the history about and below it was fascinating. It was impressive seeing the difference in the one minaret that was cleaned, super shiny white compared to the others, so it was needed. Beautiful country and great memories.
Oh my god, I love the effort you did to tell us about this trip. I really love your openness, and the ability to see good in others as human, not as poor people from a third world country. The photos are all great, love the holi colors, and the mosque looks marvelous too! Happy to be your friend, and glad you enjoyed the trip, and congrats for 35 years, It’s an amazing thing 🙂 and lastly I hope you bought some spices!
Thank you for the kind words Farida. Besides Egypt’s and Turkey’s, India’s mosques were exquisite! The tile and marble craftsmanship and detail were unbelievable. I did pick up some spices, but I realized these days most can be purchased everywhere, but the mace was something I can’t find whole here and the chai and curry blends were ones I could not pass up. So happy we have connected and shared over the past year or so – have a great day friend! 🙂
Yay! I’m happy the first of your India travels posts is up! Can’t wait for more Indian recipes to start flowing. Sounds like you threw yourself into the trip with reckless abandon trying anything and everything – just the way I like to travel.
Thanks Amanda, it was quite the memorable trip! Sitting back on a tour bus looking at where you’re at through a window is not our traveling style. We do like to explore and get out there. Put up a new chai inspired post today, enjoy!
Please tell me that elephant in the first picture is made of solid chocolate! (I still haven’t broken into my Easter bunny … I think I’m having unconscious thoughts of chowing that thing.) Of all the places in the world you could’ve gone, you certainly chose someplace exotic. Judging from your pictures, it looks like you had a really remarkable time. And I’ll bet the food was incredible! But 100 degree weather? My dream vacation has always been to stay in an ice hotel, so you see where I’m coming from.
I think that bunny needs to have a visit, this elephant was sun baked clay Jeff, although, throughout that village the kids kept asking me for chocolate? Maybe we should start a side business – Chocolate Elephants!
India had always been been the list and the price was fantastic for what we did (gotta love travelzoo.com)! It wasn’t that hot all the time and with it being a dry heat (85°) mostly it was much better then say a humid climate. Can’t handle that sticky weather. I’ve heard of ice hotels, interesting concept – here’s one right in Sweden for you!
Hi Kevin, nice to see you visiting India and all your thoughts about everything you saw in here. Yeah…I have to agree that this country is of crazy people but full of energy. The same thing is called by different names across the length and breadth of the country and the same recipe is also made in as many different ways as there are states in the country.
Nice travelogue I thoroughly enjoyed reading it. Thanks for visiting India. 🙂
Puja, it was a wonderful visit and your country and people are beautiful. The food was superb throughout and I just want to know where dosa has been all my life! LOVED that every morning.
Glad to have connected, maybe I can pick up a few tricks in Indian cooking from your site. 🙂
Wow, Kevin! Your trip looks amazing! I love your photos – they capture India so beautifully. All the little gems, the people, and that festival – gorgeous! So glad you guys enjoyed your time abroad and got to experience this phenomenal tour together <3
Thank you Beeta, it was fantastic! Nice chatting with you earlier, too. Keep sharing those amazing sweet French recipes of yours. Stay focused and positive, you are what you think! 🙂
Congrats on 35 years together! That’s awesome! This trip looks so amazing!! Lovely photos, Kevin! I love Indian food and can only imagine what it was like to eat there! Wow, you have a fig tree! That must be a real treat. We don’t often get fresh figs around here, so when I do see them, I grab them right up. I’m sure they aren’t fresh like picking yourself. Must be fantastic to just pick them from your tree. What a treat! Have a great week!
Thank you very much Dawn, it’s still fun as was the trip. As for that fig tree, I am praying I get to them quicker then the birds do this year! 🙂
What a delight it was to read this post, I loved the photos and stories and read every word. Now I want to visit India…I haven’t been anywhere exotic in quite a while. 🙂 Congratulations on your 35th anniversary to both of you! Wow, 35 years!!!
Thanks Nicole, it really does get better with time! Some days it seems like nothing and other days we are like – 35 years? Crazy how time flies when it’s not an effort.
India I think would be right up your alley, too. Amazing sites every which way and aromas to boot. Plenty for your photographer’s eye to catch and capture. 🙂
Hey Kevin! What an amazing trip! I can only imagine all the glorious smells in those markets. I love to visit and explore new places but it is always nice to be home again. Our Spring has officially arrived as the asparagus and herbs are starting up! Looking forward to new and exotic recipes! 🙂
There were indeed smells of every kind in those markets, trust me Dorothy. We had a great time venturing around, but yes, so good to be home, too. I’ve never grown asparagus, how cool. 🙂
Great post, Kevin! I read every word, and it was like I traveled along with you guys. I’ve never been to India, but I do love to travel. To be honest, this year was the first time I’ve heard about Holi…but what a great reason to schedule a trip to India. Thank you for all of these photos! This post just reminded me that it’s time for us to do another vacation. It’s been a few years, and I’m eager to explore somewhere new! 🙂
Thanks Dave, it was quite the adventure and one I highly recommend. Put Robbie in one of those back pack carriers and hit the road with Laura!